Molokai in Hawaii

Molokai is blessed with beautiful beaches, all untouched by the trappings of mass tourism.

The most famous west coast spot is Papohaku Beach, a gorgeous 3-mile stretch with basic facilities like barbeques and a bathroom. Nearby, Kapukahehu Beach is nestled in a sheltered cove with calm waters for the little ones.

Over on the east, Kumimi Beach is among the island’s top snorkelling spots – it’s just off the highway thus easy to reach. In the northeast, Halawa Beach sits tucked between a verdant valley, making for a scenic spot to swim.

On the south coast, just a 7-minute drive from Kaunakakai, One Alii Beach was once a haven for Hawaiian royalty.

Halawa Valley is among Molokai’s most scenic sites. Located on the eastern edge of the island, this lush valley is a must for nature lovers, packed full of babbling brooks, verdant fields, and cascading waterfalls.

The Solatorio Ohana family provide an insightful cultural and hiking tour on their private Halawa property. It highlights traditional Hawaiian rituals, an informative history presentation, and a guided walk that ends at a refreshing waterfall.

The Halawa Valley Flower Farm runs a similar waterfall hiking trip that meanders through their colourful tropical gardens. If you’d rather relax and admire the view, the stunning Halawa Beach is open to the public and has restrooms and other basic facilities.

Molokai’s big-ticket attraction is the Kalaupapa National Historical Park, home to a leper colony and the tallest sea cliffs on earth.

Accessing the area is complex. With no roads to speak of, travellers must either get there via a strenuous 3.5-mile trail, which ascends around 2,000 ft via 26 switchbacks. Joining a seaplane or boat tour is a good option for those who prefer a leisurely experience. 

Even so, catching a glimpse of those enormous Kalaupapa cliffs makes the arduous journey worthwhile. Some stretch up to a kilometre from the seafloor, while streams and waterfalls carve tiny valleys through the massif.

Just outside the park sits the historic settlement of Kalaupapa. During a nasty mid-19th-century outbreak, King Kamehameha V banished infected lepers to this remote, far-flung spot. Surrounded by sky-high cliffs and a turbulent ocean, it was impossible to escape – around 8,000 died from the disease. Tours are run by the National Park Service.

Molokai has a modest selection of other interesting places to visit. First, there’s Hawaii’s longest and richest Barrier Reef, spanning much of Molokai’s southern shore. The best bits of the 30-mile stretch sit about a mile offshore, so jump on a snorkelling tour to explore. Technicoloured coral and curious sea turtles make the trip worthwhile.

Spanning some 250 acres, Kumu Farms sells a broad range of delicious organic produce (the pineapples and papayas are divine) from its central Molokai store.

At Post-A-Nut, you can ship a handpainted (or inscribed) coconut to anywhere in the world. Located in the tiny town of Ho`olehua, this novel postal service is a great spot to visit.

Aside from the Kalaupapa and Halawa, Molokai has a slew of other picturesque parks to explore.

The Palaau State Park in the north is a popular spot to camp, hike, and picnic. Its elevated location keeps the place cool on a hot day.

Just outside downtown Kaunakakai, Malama Park is the site of King Kamehameha’s former summer home. There’s not much to see, but it’s a pleasant place to relax and watch local canoes paddle by.

King Kamehameha V planted the Kapuaiwa Coconut Grove in the 1860s, which overlooks the ocean and the tidal flats of Lanai.

Tree-studded Kamakou is the island’s highest peak. Volunteers lead a monthly tour through the Kamakou Preserve, where a boardwalk passes over the lush, mossy terrain. 

While Molokai isn’t exactly a foodie destination, its restaurants are about as authentic as they come. 

Kamoi Snack-n-Go, Inc. sells superb ice cream and assorted foodstuffs from its Kaunakakai store. Another local favourite is Kanemitsu’s Bakery, which has been serving delicious pastries (and meals) since 1922. 

For a fancy feast, Hiro’s Ohana Grill is an upscale establishment serving refined international and Hawaiian cuisine by the sea. Paddlers Restaurant and Bar is a landmark venue with a hearty menu of American comfort food, plus a few Hawaiian favourites.

Molokai has a small selection of shops selling authentic Hawaiian souvenirs. Art From the Heart is a must-visit for paintings, jewellery, and other artisanal goodies. True to the name, each piece is made with love.

Purdy Natural Macadamia Nuts sells locally grown macadamias plus other goods like mustard and honey – the owners love explaining their craft. If you’re in Kaunakakai on a Saturday, swing by Ala Malama Street to see the island’s best (and only) farmers' market.

Over in Maunaloa, Big Wind Kite Factory & Plantation Gallery sells handmade kites and windsocks, as well as eccentric toys and souvenirs.

Nightlife in Molokai is lowkey compared to most Hawaiian islands. It has many beachside bars that are great for kicking back with a drink with views of the ocean. 

Hotel Molokai Bar (attached to Hiro’s Ohana Grill) is one of the island’s most sophisticated spots to imbibe. It has a large polished wood veranda and lovely ocean views.

Paddlers Restaurant and Bar serves draft beer and fruit-infused cocktails to accompany its food menu. Live bands play on some nights.

Once a week, Kualapu’u Cookhouse puts on live performances by traditional local bands. It’s more of a cultural show than a boozy knees-up, making it a popular spot for families and those who prefer a laidback evening in Molokai.